Which jacket with which trousers — the tailor's guide
A jacket, a pair of trousers. Everything comes down to the relationship between the two. This guide provides the rules, shapes, and measurements you need to choose without trying anything on.
The rule: one volume, one line
Tailoring works on contrast. If the top is voluminous, the bottom must be slim. If the bottom is wide, the top must be short or close to the body.
Two voluminous layers hide the silhouette. Two slim lines make it rigid. It’s as simple as that, and it holds true regardless of body type.
The seven trouser shapes
From the widest leg to the narrowest, down to the centimeter. The number that counts is the leg opening, measured flat: it describes the fit much better than any name. All sketches are to the same scale.
- Very flared palazzo — 44 to 47 cm. Maximum volume, often with pleats from the waistband. Requires a very short or very close-fitting top.
- Palazzo — 27 to 30 cm. The wide, straight leg that falls from the hip to the hem.
- Bootcut — 29 cm. Tapered to the knee, flared below. Elongates the leg, calls for a heel.
- Balloon — 18 cm. Volume on the thigh, tightened at the hem. A shape that stands on its own.
- Corsair — 19 cm. Stops above the ankle and showcases the foot.
- Cigarette — 15 cm. Straight and narrow along the entire leg. The foundation of a tuxedo.
- Carrot — 14 cm. Loose at the top, tapered at the bottom. The most forgiving shape.
See all our slim & tapered fits · See all our wide & palazzo fits
The four jacket shapes
Two numbers matter here: the back length, which tells you where the jacket ends, and the underarm width, which indicates volume. Anything over 55 cm on a size S is an oversized fit; under 48 cm, it is tailored.
- Oversized — back 74 cm, shoulder 44, underarm 63. The shoulder drops intentionally, the bust is voluminous.
- Tailored — back 68 cm, shoulder 38, underarm 46. The line follows the body, the waist is defined.
- Short — back 49 cm. Stops at the waist and frees the hip.
- Sleeveless — back 72 cm. The tailored vest, worn alone or over long sleeves.
See all our tailored jackets and vests
Which jacket with which trousers
| Your jacket | The matching trousers | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Oversized | Carrot, cigarette, corsair | The slim leg balances shoulder volume and elongates the line |
| Short, at the waist | Palazzo, wide leg | The short jacket clears the waist, the palazzo takes over at the bottom |
| Tailored | Palazzo, bootcut | The close-fitting top supports the fullness at the bottom |
| Sleeveless, long | Carrot, corsair | The length of the vest requires a clean leg to avoid looking heavy |
And the other way around
| Your trousers | The matching jacket |
|---|---|
| Very flared palazzo | Short jacket, short vest |
| Palazzo, bootcut | Short or tailored jacket |
| Balloon | Tailored jacket, never oversized |
| Carrot, cigarette, corsair | Oversized blazer, long vest |
Glossary of finishes
Terms you will find on our product pages.
- Notched lapel — the V-shaped notch between the collar and the lapel. The classic tailoring finish.
- Shawl collar — a rounded, continuous lapel without a notch. Softer, more dressy.
- Furrier’s hook — a flat, hidden fastener that closes without a visible button.
- Piping — a thin strip of fabric bordering a pocket or seam. In satin, it catches the light.
- Martingale — an adjustable back strap that cinches the waist of a coat or vest.
- Structuring shoulder pad — a reinforcement piece that supports the shoulder line without widening it.
- Slant pocket — a pocket set at an angle in the side seam, invisible when closed.
- Cuffed hem — the bottom of the leg folded outward, which adds weight and visually shortens.
Our tailoring fabrics
The shape determines the silhouette; the fabric determines the drape. The same palazzo will not look the same in wrinkle-free crepe, suiting fabric, or corduroy. Each fabric collection page groups together pieces cut from the same material, including jackets and trousers.
The simplest way
Each product page suggests the matching piece, cut from the same fabric. It is an ensemble we have composed, where the contrast is already perfectly balanced.
All our pages provide measurements taken flat, along with a diagram. You can compare them to a piece you already own: it’s more reliable than a size guide.
And if you're hesitant, come and try them on. Our advisors can show you both options side-by-side at 21 rue du Président Édouard Herriot, Lyon 1st.