The oversize look fails for one reason only: people size up. It isn't a larger size. It is a cut designed to be wide, with the shoulder purposely dropped and the bust widened in calculated proportions. Taking a size 42 in a fitted cut when you are a 40 doesn't give you an oversize look, it gives you a garment that is too big.

The numbers

On our product pages, two measurements say it all. An oversize blazer has a back length of 74 cm and a 63 cm underarm width. A fitted blazer has a back length of 68 cm and a 46 cm underarm width.

A seventeen-centimeter difference under the arms. That is where the oversize look lies, not on the size tag.

The four Imperial Femme tailored jacket shapes: oversize, fitted, short, and sleeveless, drawn to the same scale with their back length and underarm width

All our product pages provide these measurements taken while the garment is laid flat. The most reliable method is to compare them to a jacket you already own. Details on the four shapes can be found in the tailoring guide.

The rule of single volume

A wide volume on top calls for a sharp line on the bottom, and vice versa. Two combined volumes wash out your silhouette: you can no longer see where the body begins.

Practically speaking, an oversize blazer should be worn with carrot, cigarette, or capri pants. A palazzo pant calls for a short or close-fitting jacket — this is detailed in the article on palazzo pants.

The complete table of matches can be found in the tailoring guide.

The point everyone forgets

The shoulder seam. On a successful oversize cut, it falls between two and four centimeters below the shoulder bone. Not ten. Beyond that, the sleeve bunches up like an accordion and the jacket slips backward when you walk.

This is the only point that cannot be altered correctly. Everything else, such as sleeve length and hems, can be adjusted at the shop.

If you are petite

The oversize look is not off-limits, but it requires two adjustments. Have the sleeves shortened, systematically. And keep your waist visible underneath, either with high-waisted pants or a tucked-in top.

The long sleeveless tailored vest is often a better starting point than a blazer: you get the volume without the sleeve issue.

Other loose-fitting pieces for the season

The oversize micro-houndstooth blazer, for those who want both volume and pattern in one piece, provided everything else worn with it is solid-colored.

The oversize short-sleeved leather jacket, which is worn over a fine, long-sleeved knit.

The oversize striped shirt, the most effortless version: it can be tucked in or left open over a tank top.

See all blazers and jackets · See tailored jackets and vests

— Imperial Lyon