Twenty-two palazzo pants in the boutique, versus five slim-leg trousers. This is no seasonal coincidence; it is what our clients have been buying for years. Here is how to choose them, and more importantly, how not to get it wrong.
The hem determines everything
A palazzo pant depends on two centimeters. Too short, and the leg is cut off and the volume settles at the ankle. Too long, and the hem drags and wears out in two weeks.
The right length: the edge should graze the floor, by at most one centimeter, without touching it when you walk.
This dictates one thing: Decide on your heel height before having the hem done, and bring the shoes to the tailor. A palazzo hemmed for seven-centimeter heels is unwearable flat, and the reverse is also true. This is the error we fix most often, and it is also the most expensive to correct, because you cannot lengthen trousers.
If you truly alternate between flats and heels, get two pairs, or commit to the heel length and keep the pants for those days.
Three waists, three uses
The high waist defines the waistband and lengthens the leg. It is the most structuring version, like the high-waisted pleated Ponte di Roma palazzo or the wide-cuff style.
The fitted waist, slightly lower, sits naturally at the waist without squeezing it. The twill fabric is an example of this.
The elasticated waist, for a full day sitting down or a long journey. The wrinkle-free crepe palazzo combines both, and it is the one we recommend most often for the office.
How the fabric changes things
The same pattern does not yield the same look depending on the fabric.
The fluid crepe moves as you walk: it is what gives the effect of movement you look for in a palazzo. See the extra-wide slit style.
The draping fabric and twill fall straight and heavy. More formal, less movement.
The Ponte di Roma holds its crease without wrinkling at the knees.
The corduroy visually increases the volume: reserve this if you want the bottom half to dominate.
Which top to pair with
One rule, and it never changes: the volume is at the bottom, so the top is short or close-fitting.
A fine knit tucked into the waistband. A cropped blazer that stops at the waist. A tailored bustier under an open jacket.
What does not work: the oversized blazer. Two overlapping volumes erase the silhouette, making it impossible to see where the body begins. This is explained in detail in the article on oversized fits and in the tailoring guide.
The matching set
Most of our palazzos have a matching jacket in the same fabric. This is where the volume rule can be negotiated: in a coordinated set, the continuity of fabric and color holds the silhouette together even with a roomier jacket.
The micro-check twill palazzo with its double-breasted shawl collar blazer, or the striped crepe palazzo with its double-breasted blazer.
For a special occasion
The palazzo is a serious alternative to a dress, and often more comfortable for a twelve-hour day. The slit satin crepe, the satin-waistband with trim, or the sequin-embroidered piqué are perfect for the evening.
Our guidelines by occasion can be found on the ceremonial attire page.
If you are petite
Palazzo pants are not reserved for tall women, but they require a high waist, a tucked-in top, and a custom-made hem. Without these three conditions, they will make you look shorter. With them, they lengthen more than straight trousers.
Alterations are done in the boutique, at 21 rue du Président Édouard Herriot. Bring your shoes.