You choose a coat for its color and cut. You regret it for its weight and how it ages. Here is what our four winter fabrics are really like, without the catalog jargon.
Wool broadcloth
This is the fabric for coats. A tightly woven, fulled fabric that blocks the wind much better than a knit of the same thickness. It drapes straight and holds its shape without needing to be structured.
The long camel wool broadcloth coat and the short camel hair-style double-breasted coat are our two reference lengths. The short double-breasted pea coat with a stand-up collar is for those who can't stand a long coat while driving.
What you should know: broadcloth pills where it rubs, like from shoulder bags and seatbelts. A brush or fabric shaver once a month is enough to keep it looking sharp for years.
Worsted wool
Thinner and more supple. It is the wool used for tailored trousers and jackets, which provides a clean drape without stiffness. It does not provide warmth on its own; it is meant to be worn in layers.
This is our most extensive range: twenty-five pieces, including tailored trousers, long vests, and palazzos.
Its downside: it shows creases more than crepe. A wide hanger and a bit of space in the closet resolve the issue.
Corduroy
The most understated comeback of the season. We only have two pieces, a tailored blazer and flowing trousers, but they are meant to be worn together.
Velvet has a unique feature: it has a nap. Brushed one way, the light catches it; brushed the other, it slips. That is why a velvet piece never quite looks the same color from different angles, and why you cannot iron it flat without crushing the cord. Use steam only, from a distance.
Ponte di Roma jersey
Technically a knit, not a fabric. A dense, double-faced knit that doesn't lose its shape at the knees or elbows. That is what sets it apart from ordinary jersey.
It lasts through a full day at the office, making it our most frequent recommendation for a work wardrobe.
How to layer them
The logic of winter isn't to pile on layers, but to stagger them. A thin knit against the skin, a worsted wool or velvet piece in the middle, and the broadcloth on top.
The common mistake is wearing a heavy knit under a fitted coat. The coat won't close, or if it does, you'll be cold in the arms because the wool is compressed. Compressed wool no longer holds heat: it's the air trapped between the fibers that insulates, not the fiber itself.
Washing
All our pieces are machine washable, including the wools. Thirty degrees, wool cycle, minimal spin, dry flat for knits and on a hanger for everything else. No tumble drying, ever.
The details on the season's fabrics are available on our materials page. For the relationship between fabric and cut, see the tailor's guide.